Since we’ve been traveling around the country over the last few days, we’ve had plenty of opportunities to observe Nicaraguans on the road. Everyone knows the road hazards in Boston: few street signs, snow and ice, massive traffic jams, the occasional two ton big dig ceiling panel. But these things pale in comparison to what Nicaraguan drivers face every day:

  • Not just no street signs, but no street names. Few streets are named, and addresses are often along the lines of “from where the post office used to be, five blocks toward the lake and one block toward the mountain.” Amazingly we were able to locate our destinaton in Chinandega after only asking for directions twice — but I can guarantee tha if I’d been driving we probably would have wandered for hours.
  • Animate hazards – cats, dogs, pigs, goats, etc. often stray onto the road. Horse-drawn carts are frequently seen in even the largest cities, and bikes are even more common. Trucks or carts are likely piled high with people, plantains, firewood or other cargo. Even bikes are frequently loaded down with 2-3 people.
  • Inanimate hazards — on our way back from Tipitapa on Friday, we ran into a concrete block. The blocks had been used lieu of cones to mark off areas of the road that required work — although there were no signs of work in progress. The block destroyed our tire and wheel — Richard, who was driving, took the accident in stride.
  • Lanes – Many roads lack lane markings entirely, and even on those that have them they are considered only a rough advisory. Nica drivers know better than to submit to that sort of unjustified government intrusion, and instead move to te left or right as needed.
  • Potholes – The (only) road between Rivas and San Juan del Sur is especially bad in this regard — in places the entire road is covered with massive potholes, and drivers swerve off onto a parallel dirt path that offers a smoother ride. Even where the potholes only cover parts of the road, drivers must swerve drunkenly back and forth to avoid them. Allegedly the government is going to improve this road once the rainy season is over, but who knows?

To deal with these hazards, the Nicas have developed a system: they honk at everything that moves, and some things that don’t. Honking ettiquette is apparently taught when people learn to drive, much like the use of a turn signal. It is standard practice when overtaking people on the road to let out a short blast on the horn. When passing an intersection, a slightly longer blast might be called for.

Despite the horn system, though, driving in Nicaragua requires a healthy dose of courage and patience. It’s not for the faint of heart!